Back to Editorial
Reschio Hotel · Perugia
Castello di Reschio
Arriving at Castello di Reschio in Umbria feels like stepping into a time portal. Spanning over 3,700 acres, the property is thought to be in a region that dates back to Etruscan rule, with construction on the original castle structure beginning in c. 900. When the Bolza family acquired Castello di Reschio in 1984, the castle had been in a state of disuse. The family transformed it into a hotel and private residences, led by Count Benedikt and his wife Donna Nencia, an architect and interior designer duo.
What I loved about this hotel is that it’s one of the few places I’ve visited in Italy where you can truly be isolated from the rest of the world, a place where you can completely turn off and reset. You will likely never leave the property during your stay. When my husband and I arrived, it was a clear autumn day with all the leaves changing. We rented bikes and went for a ride around the property at sunset, and it felt like a movie. For anyone who is restless, the hotel offers several activities including cooking classes, arts and crafts such as embroidery or calligraphy, and horseback riding (I took my first lesson here and loved it). They also have two fantastic tennis courts and a gorgeous pool, which is heated in the winter. The room was very comfortable and conducive to a good night’s sleep, and the service was excellent—after dinner one evening I came back to a burgundy pair of beautiful Venetian friulane slippers.
Pro tips: Go in the spring or fall when it’s not too hot, and the restaurant in the equestrian center is far better for dinner.
Passalacqua · Lake Como
Passalacqua
What can I say, Passalacqua lives up to the hype. The smaller sister of Grand Hotel Tremezzo has just 24 keys, and even though I’m not obsessed with Lake Como, I’m definitely obsessed with Passalacqua. Lavish, grand, and very Italian in the best way possible, it feels like the house of an aristocratic Lombardian family with excellent taste in neoclassical interior design. I could do a sabbatical there; waking up to Mozart blasting from bluetooth speakers, opening the windows to a clear sunny day on the lake, reading and writing from the main villa. It’s the kind of brief moment that makes your problems disappear. The bathrooms are equipped with Murano glass mirrors, a claw foot bath tub, a shower with excellent water pressure, and every Dyson hair tool you might need. I absolutely love when hotel bathrooms are designed with women in mind!
The hotel itself has a beautiful tennis court overlooking the lake, as well as a wonderful pool and spa. I highly recommend their full body massage, which was done with very good pressure for complete relaxation. Another reason why Passalacqua is truly excellent is their food and beverage program. It’s rare for luxury Italian hotels to get the perfect balance between elevated and comforting, in a way that’s not fussy nor intimidating. I thoroughly enjoyed every meal at Passalacqua, and I don’t say that lightly. I’ve also stayed at Grand Hotel Tremezzo and while it was a fantastic experience, Passalacqua mirrors my taste in design so well that it tops my list for the Lake Como region. Lastly, and most importantly, I thought the staff were friendly and fun, but formal and elegant at the same time. It’s a tough balance to execute, especially for a tough and demanding crowd.
Pro tip: Stay in the main villa in a lake view room. Heaven on earth!
Borgo Santandrea · Amalfi
Borgo Santandrea
About 90% of the pleasure of staying at Borgo Santandrea are the views, which you can enjoy from nearly every corner of the hotel. The hotel is owned and operated by a 3rd generation hotel family from Ischia, and the precision in their execution shows. When you arrive, you’re greeted by the tasteful Gio Ponti side of Italy—handsome blue tile floors, Ancient Roman artefacts, and mid-century furniture come together to create a beautiful, visually Italian experience. I gasped upon first sight of the room, with a floor-to-ceiling corner window facing the sea. Waking up here made me feel so incredibly lucky to experience this place and call Italy my home!
Now, for the food and beverage. There’s a fine dining restaurant that I tried but didn’t love, only because I don’t typically opt for fine dining. However, the breakfast was particularly enjoyable, as they host a buffet in their open kitchen. Breakfast with a view of the turquoise sea was spectacular, to say the least. Another big pro of Borgo Santandrea is their private beach club. It’s hard to find a beach club on the Amalfi Coast that isn’t crowded to the brim, and it’s a big luxury to be able to get from your room to the sea in a few minutes. The hotel also provides a shuttle service for when you want to go into town, which is just 10 minutes away. Lastly, if your next stop is Capri, you can opt to be taken there on the hotel’s private boat transfer, which is a nice cherry on top.
Pro tip: A sea view room is a must.
Hotel La Palma · Capri
La Palma Capri
Since I know there’s bound to be a lot of interest in Capri, whether you already go there every summer or plan to go to a wedding there, I’m including La Palma Capri on this list. While it’s not the most historical or aesthetically charming hotel on the island, it makes up for it with its strategic position and the staff’s unreasonable generosity. The hotel itself is quite central and located on the “high street”, with easy access to many shops, bakeries, cafes, and restaurants. However, the biggest pro of La Palma is its private beach club, which is just a 10-minute shuttle ride away. In Capri, the public beach situation isn’t great, as the island’s geography is mountainous with high cliffs, so having beach access that isn’t overwhelmingly crowded is essential if you want to be in the water. It helps that the food at the beach club is perfect for a lounge-y type of day as well.
Back to my point on unreasonable generosity, the staff truly do spoil you. Every time I came back to the room, I found a gift waiting for me—whether it was a bottle of champagne, a silk eye mask for turn down service, a sturdy beach tote, flip flops and a hat (just in case I forgot), and a full size bottle of Santa Maria Novella perfume. The service was excellent, as it was clear that La Palma is very used to guests with a lot of demands, which is certainly not always the case in Italy. The hotel also has a spa situation that suffices for a few days in Capri, with a sauna, steam room, and salt room.
Pro tip: Go in September or even October as it’s still very warm by the sea on sunny days and less crowded.
Portrait Firenze · Florence
Portrait Firenze
Portrait Firenze is right on the Arno river and next to the Ponte Vecchio. In terms of location, it’s hard to beat. There’s generous natural light in the rooms facing the river, a plus in Florence where the urban context of the city doesn’t always allow for natural light in the buildings. The hotel doesn’t have many amenities, but it makes up for it with very stylish rooms and a concierge that can move mountains for you. If you’ve been to Florence, you know that it’s a pain to get restaurant reservations or that tickets to Galleria Uffizi are often sold out. Luckily, their concierge can secure a pretty solid itinerary, even if it’s last minute. For that reason, it’s definitely worth noting on this list.
Pro tip: A room facing the river is a must.
Casa Cipriani Milano · Milan
Casa Cipriani Milano
Casa Cipriani Milano is a Michele Bonan–designed hotel, which means you can expect a stylish, high-quality, and comfortable stay when visiting Milan. Casa Cipriani makes this list for three reasons. First, their concierge service is excellent. If you need tickets to La Scala, difficult restaurant reservations, or anything else, they’re vey reliable. Second, hotel guests get access to the members club floors. On any given evening, Casa Cipriani’s third floor restaurant and fourth floor club provide the best people watching in Milan—without a doubt. And third, the hotel spa is quite solid and provides everything you need during your stay. I’ve always said that the food and service at Casa Cipriani is some of the most consistent and reliable you’ll find in the city, and I still stand by that three years into living in Milan.
Pro tip: The salt water flotation pool in the basement of the spa is Milan’s best-kept wellness secret. I also love snacking on the dried mango in the relaxation area.
KEEP READING
