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ÎLE DE RÉ 101
• Two of Île de Ré’s defining local industries are oyster farming and salt harvesting. This is apparent upon arrival—the landscape is filled with oyster beds, salt marshes, and farmland (and even a few vineyards!)—and experiencing both is essential to appreciating the local culture. • Every visit to Île de Ré should include stops at a few cabanes ostréicoles (oyster shacks) for late-afternoon oysters and wine, while fleur de sel is the souvenir to bring home. • While the weather during shoulder season is still great (early Sept, late May), June-August is peak season and when all of the best restaurants are open, plus some great seasonal pop-ups. It’s worth visiting during this time to ensure the best spots are open. • Biking is the main mode of transport on Île de Ré. Days are oriented around mornings at the beach, afternoons at an oyster shack, then dinner, and a bike is the best way to link it all together. Rent an electric bike from Yoo Too, right in the center of Saint-Martin-de-Ré. • That said, having a car is still great (especially if traveling with kids), as the beaches are spread out. With a car, you’ll have more flexibility to get around quickly.
WHERE TO STAY
Île de Ré isn’t big on five-star resorts—the hotel scene here leans heavily towards charming, family-run boutique hotels. Hotel De Toiras is the grand dame (in reputation, not in size), an elegant, nautical hotel in the heart of Saint-Martin-de-Ré town. It’s run by Olivia and Didier le Calvez, a husband-and-wife duo with a serious hospitality pedigree, who transformed the 17th-century house into an 18-room, classic French hotel with interiors by Pierre-Yves Rochon. You’ll find old-school decor featuring antiques and traditional textiles, plus two restaurants, including one on the terrace where breakfast is served overlooking the harbor. Just a short walk away is the Calvezes’ second hotel, Villa Clarisse, a tucked-away counterpart to Toiras. Set on a quiet street, it’s an elegant oasis with just nine rooms, plus a garden, spa, and pool. The decor here—also done by Pierre-Yves Rochon—is ever-so-slightly more modern than at Toiras, while still feeling very classic French. It’s hard to pick between the two, but we’d recommend Toiras for anyone who wants an iconic Île de Ré hotel right in the heart of town, and Villa Clarisse for someone who wants quiet elegance, and an intimate atmosphere.
It’s worth mentioning that Île de Ré is a destination where a villa also works really well. You could easily spend a week here, visiting beaches, hitting the market, and cooking at home. The best villas are run by Le Collectionist (admittedly, they’re also the most expensive, so best to book with a group), but there are also some cute beach houses available through Le Phare. They’re simpler, and a big hit with families, but a really affordable way to have more space and facilities (kitchen & laundry, etc.) for longer stays.
WHERE TO EAT
LA POISSONNE … · Ile de Re
LA POISSONNE …
This gourmet fishmonger and grocer stocks some of the island's best fish alongside well-curated provisions like Japanese rice, canned tuna and sardines, potato chips, and an excellent selection of natural wine. In the summer, it also operates a restaurant, one of the best on the island. The vibe is casual, but the menu is excellently done. Think oysters (of course), plus salmon carpaccio with yuzu ponzu and furikake and fennel salad with lemon ricotta, haddock, and green apple vinaigrette.
Method · Ile de Re
Method
One of the more exciting restaurants on the island is Method, which started as a natural wine bar and slowly emerged into a full-fledged restaurant. The cooking here is thrilling, with an ever-changing menu that has included dishes like spring onion tempura with green curry emulsion and maigre tartare with Armenian cucumber and fresh almonds. It’s just a short walk from Plage des Anneries, so hit the beach then come here for a perfect early dinner.
La Part des Anges · Ile de Re
La Part des Anges
This natural wine bar in La Couarde is the perfect post-beach spot for wine and a short but sweet menu of seafood-focused small plates. Try to grab a table on the terrace, and order whatever tartare is on the menu, plus a few other elegant dishes (past ones have included tomato salad with dried ricotta and fig-leaf oil, or pork collar with zucchini and meat jus).
La cabane du Feneau · Ile de Re
La Cabane du Feneau
Oyster farming has been part of life on Île de Ré for centuries, and over time, producers began welcoming visitors to their cabanes ostréicoles to enjoy oysters right where they’re grown. One of the island’s most classic is La Cabane du Feneau, a lovely little spot tucked into the marshes. Come for oysters, shrimp, and other shellfish—plus plenty of white wine!
Les Huitres De Trousse Chemise · Ile de Re
Les Huîtres de Trousse-Chemise
Another of the island’s best cabanes is Les Huîtres de Trousse-Chemise, which offers the same tried-and-tested menu of oysters, shellfish, and wine, plus amazing sunset views.
La Martinière · Ile de Re
La Martinière
We’d argue a visit to La Martinière is a mandatory daily activity on Île de Ré. It’s the island’s go-to ice cream spot, with a handful of locations all over the island, including at some of the best beaches (to make that daily habit even easier). You can’t go wrong with any of the flavors—but try the oyster one, if only for novelty’s sake!
Chez Charles · Ile de Re
Chez Charles
This charming French bistro is a great pick in Saint-Martin-de-Ré town. The service is warm and welcoming and the food is classic French. We loved our lunch of the catch of the day, served with a few vegetable sides and duck fat–roasted potatoes. Simple, and perfect.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Plage de la Conche · Ile de Re
Plage de la Conche
Our favorite beach from our recent trip is also an island favorite. This beautiful, sandy stretch is just near the Phare des Baleines on the western coast of the island. It's backed by forest, giving it a slightly wild feel, but the beach itself is long and peaceful and the water is great for swimming.
Plage de Trousse-Chemise · Ile de Re
Plage de Trousse-Chemise
On the far edge of the island, near Les Portes-en-Ré, this remote beach is another favorite—particularly at low tide, when a sandbank emerges from the water. After spending the day here, head nearby to Les Huîtres de Trousse-Chemise for oysters.
Phare des Baleines · Ile de Re
Phare des Baleines
This iconic lighthouse sits on the western side of the island and offers beautiful views if you climb its 257 steps. It’s one of the most touristed spots on the island, but the views really are special.
Marché de la Flotte · Ile de Re
Marché de La Flotte
One of the most famous markets on Île de Ré, largely thanks to its medieval-feeling setting in a cobblestone courtyard lined with wooden stalls. Come to browse the produce, pick up fleur de sel to take home, and people-watch as locals tuck into oysters and white wine as early as 10 a.m.
Galerie Maison Sanat · Ile de Re
Galerie Maison Sanat
This gallery makes a nice art/culture stop in the town of Les Portes-en-Ré. Try to pop by on a day when the Portes-en-Ré market is happening, for a nice selection of produce and clothing.
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