Tbilisi & Beyond, Curated By Local Expert Nanuka Jorjadze

GEORGIA 101 Fall is my favorite time to visit Georgia, with harvest season, warm days, and weather still good enough for hiking and jumping into a stream afterward. Winter is perfect if you’re into skiing, winter sports, or parties (no one does New Year’s like Tbilisi). The best way to understand Tbilisi is to walk without overplanning: spend time in Sololaki, Mtatsminda, Chughureti, and Old Tbilisi; look inside old entryways, pay attention to courtyard life, and keep an eye out for Soviet symbols, sculptures, and strange architectural details—these small moments tell you more about Tbilisi than any guidebook could. Spend at least three or four days exploring the city, but Georgia is a small country with an unfairly long must-see list, so stay longer if you can: mountains, desert, the Black Sea, wine region, and vibrant cities are all within reach.

5 WORDS TO KNOW • Gaumarjos — The Georgian word for “cheers.” You’ll hear it often at dinners, supras, and basically anywhere wine is involved. • Supra — A traditional Georgian feast built around food, wine, and toasts. It’s not just a meal but a whole ritual of hospitality, storytelling, and drinking led by the tamada. • Tamada — The toastmaster at a Georgian supra. Part host, part storyteller, and part philosopher, the tamada leads the toasts and sets the rhythm of the table. • Qvevri — A large clay vessel used for traditional Georgian winemaking. Qvevris are buried underground and used to ferment, store, and age wine. • Tone — A traditional Georgian clay oven used to bake bread, especially shoti, the long canoe-shaped bread you’ll see pulled hot from the walls of the oven.

15 MUST-GO SPOTS IN TBILISI

Ninia’s Garden · Tbilisi

Ninia’s Garden

My favorite restaurant in Tbilisi, nothing beats the atmosphere at Ninia’s Garden and the food is truly exceptional. Don’t leave without having dessert—the matsoni with seasonal fruit is to die for. Make sure to book ahead, especially for dinner, and ask for a table in the garden if the weather permits.

Poliphonia · Tbilisi

Poliphonia

For a slower dinner with amazing local food and great natural wine. Order everything to share, and if you’re lucky, the owner John Wurdeman might be your tamada for the evening.

The Kitchen · Tbilisi

The Kitchen

A go-to dinner spot with a cozy atmosphere, seasonal dishes, and the kind of easy warmth that makes it work just as well for a relaxed meal as for a proper night out.

WAREHOUSE at Stamba · Tbilisi

Stamba Warehouse

One of the city’s most vibrant natural wine bars, with excellent people-watching.

Kancellaria Natural Wine Bar · Tbilisi

Kancellaria

An intimate bar with an excellent food menu. Popular with locals and great for a date night.

MutantRadio · Tbilisi

MutantRadio

My favorite bar in the city, with a cool design, great atmosphere, and perfect music curation.

Stamba Hotel (სტამბა) · Tbilisi

Stamba Hotel

A design hotel set in a Soviet-era publishing house that’s close to cafes, bars, shops, and the creative side of Tbilisi. It’s a great hotel for walking around the city center.

The Blue Fox Hotel · Tbilisi

Blue Fox

A quiet, more intimate stay in Old Tbilisi, this boutique hotel is best if you want charm and atmosphere over a big-hotel feel.

ARCHIVED couture · Tbilisi

Archived Couture

The first and only fashion archive in the Caucasus region, with pieces from legendary houses and designers including Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Pierre Cardin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten, and Christian Dior by John Galliano.

Kona Books · Tbilisi

Kona Books

Tbilisi-based bookstore and publisher that’s great for art, design, photography, and beautifully selected books.

Le Chic Radical · Tbilisi

Le Chic Radical

A handcrafted jewelry brand and concept store based in Tbilisi with a collection of unique silver and costume jewelry, including chokers, necklaces, rings, drop earrings, pearls, and diamanté pieces.

Chreli Abano · Tbilisi

Chreli Abano Sulfur Baths

A traditional Georgian spa, perfect after a long day exploring the city. Book a private room in advance, bring a swimsuit, and add a traditional scrub for the full experience.

Rooms Studio · Tbilisi

Rooms Studio

A showroom dedicated to Georgian craftsmanship, contemporary design, and collectible objects: limited-edition furniture, lighting, and functional art pieces, including sculptural chairs, handmade copper works, and geometric mirrors carved from local materials.

Georgian National Museum (საქართველოს ეროვნული მუზეუმი) · Tbilisi

Blue Gallery

The National Gallery of Georgia in Tbilisi, known locally as the Blue Gallery, sits on Rustaveli Avenue and showcases works by Niko Pirosmani, Davit Kakabadze, Iakob Nikoladze, Lado Gudiashvili, and other major figures of Georgian art.

Dry Bridge Market · Tbilisi

Dry Bridge Market

Tbilisi’s flea market, with everything from Soviet objects and paintings to jewelry and books. Bring cash, take your time, and don’t be afraid to bargain politely. It’s a fun, informal way to learn a little Georgian history.

BEYOND TBILISI: SAMEGRELO

Samegrelo is one of Georgia’s great food regions, known for bold flavors and dishes that feel completely distinct from the rest of the country. It also has its own language, identity, and rhythm, shaped by centuries of history and its location in western Georgia’s lush, dramatic landscape. Samegrelo is considered part of the geographic and mythical heart of ancient Colchis, the legendary land where Jason and the Argonauts sailed on the Argo in search of the Golden Fleece. With its dramatic landscapes, historic sites, and exceptional food, it's one of western Georgia’s most rewarding regions.

Dadi House · Kutaisi

Dadi House

Dadi House in Samegrelo is one of the loveliest ways to be introduced to western Georgia. Hosts Lasha and Salome have created a space that’s deeply tasteful without feeling overly designed: warm, cozy, thoughtful, and full of small details that make it feel like a friend’s countryside home with very good taste. The location is part of the magic, tucked above Martvili with beautiful views of the surrounding hills and a church close enough you can hear the bells. It’s the perfect base for exploring Samegrelo, or for doing very little at all.

Martvili Canyon · Kutaisi

Martvili Canyon

One of Samegrelo’s most famous natural landmarks with mossy limestone cliffs, turquoise water, walking paths, and boat rides along the Abasha River. Go early to avoid the busiest hours.

Khobi Convent · Kutaisi

Khobi Convent

A historic monastery complex with centuries of religious and political significance. It once held important relics, including the Virgin Mary’s robe, and still feels like one of the region’s more quietly powerful stops.

Tsalenjikha Cathedral · Kutaisi

Tsalenjikha Cathedral

One of western Georgia’s most important religious monuments, especially known for its frescoes painted by Manuel Eugenicos, a master artist from Constantinople during the rule of Vamek Dadiani I.

Nogha Fortress · Kutaisi

Nogha Fortress

A 16th-century fortress located at the highest point of Nogha village with double walls, towers, and wide views over the surrounding area. It’s a good stop if you like ruins that still feel a little wild.

Niko Nikoladze House Museum · Kutaisi

Niko Nikoladze House Museum

A small but fascinating museum in Didi Jikhaishi dedicated to Niko Nikoladze, one of Georgia’s major public figures and reformists. It displays personal objects, early technology, and a glimpse into the life of someone who helped modernize the city of Poti.

BEYOND TBILISI: KAKHETI

Georgia has the oldest known winemaking tradition, tracing back to 6000–5800 BC. Kakheti is Georgia’s main wine region and where the country’s ancient winemaking traditions feel especially alive: Qvevri buried underground, Rkatsiteli and Saperavi on every table, and slow living with Alazani Valley views. Between monasteries, semi-desert landscapes, small food stops, museums, cheese ateliers, and contemporary art, Kakheti is a perfect weekend getaway from the city, especially during harvest season.

ბადიაურის ყველი და პური · Sighnaghi

Badiauri Cheese & Bread

A perfect first stop on the way to Kakheti: hot shoti bread straight from the tone with fresh local cheese. Simple, delicious, and exactly how a Kakheti trip should begin.

David Gareji monastery · Tbilisi

David Gareji

A rock-cut monastery complex surrounded by stark semi-desert scenery, offering a striking contrast to the greener, vineyard-filled image most people have of Georgia.

Monastery of St. Nino at Bodbe · Sighnaghi

Monastery of St. Nino at Bodbe

One of Georgia’s most important religious sites, beautifully positioned above the valley just outside Sighnaghi.

Pheasant's Tears Winery · Sighnaghi

Pheasant’s Tears Winery

A pioneer of Georgian natural wine. Go for qvevri wines, seasonal Georgian food, and a long, relaxing dinner. It's from the same owner as Poliphonia in Tbilisi.