Hôtel Royal

Perched high on the hill above the (truly adorable) town of Évian-les-Bains is the Hôtel Royal Évian. Originally commissioned by the mineral water company in the early 1900’s, the property is a Palace of France, a designation given to the best of the best in French hospitality. But it’s also wonderfully human, with a welcoming staff who make it feel like a home — and who are making moves to operate the property in a way that conserves its precious water. I really started to think about water on a tour of the property’s grounds with its landscaper. The lawns were not as manicured as one might expect, which he explained was an intentional decision to return them to native meadows. Along with improving the wildlife habitat, the meadows have drastically reduced the property’s water usage. Lawns that used to be watered daily now only need it once or twice a week, and the resort is using one-seventh of the water it used just a few years ago. He also pointed out dense ground cover that has been allowed to accumulate under the property’s 600 trees, protecting the giants (some hundreds of years old) from summer heat waves. The hotel even operates 10 beehives and extensive permaculture kitchen gardens, which produce two tons of fruit and vegetables a year for its restaurants. The hotel is undoubtedly grand. It has seven restaurants, an (incredible) spa, and one of the best kids’ programs I’ve ever encountered. But along with the grandeur, there was a coziness present, too. Maybe it was the families walking through the lobby on their way back from the spa, the kids in their little bathrobes. Or maybe it was the warm conversations I had with the staff, many of whom have spent their entire careers there (some had worked at the hotel upwards of thirty years) and were personally invested in creating an incredible guest experience. Their collective effect was unusual and unexpected, a fresh mix of old and new, a property that is embracing the past while keeping an eye on how they can grow into the future. — Skye Parrott