Virunga Lodge

Perched on a ridge above the Musanze valley, the lodge, built in 2004, overlooks two lakes and has views of several Virunga Mountain peaks. The property has ten bandas, standalone bungalows with thatched roofs and private outdoor sitting areas with firepits. Each room has its own butler. Our butler, Dan, was a 24-year-old local who aspires to eventually hold political office. The details are always in the service, and the service couldn't have been any better. Dan woke us up in the morning — by singing. His voice registered a quiet falsetto, almost like a birdsong outside our banda as he lit our fire and delivered breakfast. I didn’t want to ask any questions about what he was saying, or where the song came from. I wanted to make up my own story about it. He left as he arrived, singing, leaving behind a wake of loveliness. On the morning we went gorilla trekking, our wake-up song came at 5:10 am. - Jeremy Malman