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Auberge de Chassignolles · Saint-Étienne
Auberge de Chassignolles
Auberge de Chassignolles is one of the pioneers in France’s “cozy countryside inns with incredible food and wine” movement. It’s simple—tucked into the tiny, remote town of Chassignolles in the Auvergne region (2.5 hours by car from Lyon, and far away from pretty much everything else)—and that’s why it works. The property is really a restaurant with rooms, and the premise is straightforward: seasonal, organic plates, implementing whatever is fresh from the garden. The offerings change daily but could include plates like white asparagus with homemade guanciale or lamb chops with lentils and Swiss chard, rounded out with a truly standout natural wine list. Staying a few nights means you also get access to their epic breakfast spread, starring thick slabs of butter, hard boiled eggs, fresh local cheese, an array of jams, and more, plus simply appointed but cozy rooms. The hotel is perfectly situated for hikers, so days can be spent out in the mountains before returning to the Auberge to refuel.
Maison Ailhon · Valvignères
Maison Ailhon
If the concept behind Maison Ailhon doesn’t sound entirely different from that at Auberge de Chassignolles, it’s because the owners first worked at Chassignolles before opening this spot, also deep in the French countryside. Run by husband-and-wife chef duo Clément Guernalec and Lucie Soerensen—who previously did a stint at Paris’ Septime—the undeniably charming restaurant and inn is set in the tiny village of Ailhon and was an instant success upon opening in 2023. It has just two bedrooms—simple and minimalist but still chic—and a seasonal restaurant serving vegetable-forward plates and hearty countryside dishes like braised hare with celery and parsnip mousseline and butter-glazed salsify. It’s a bucolic home base for a few days in the countryside, hiking and eating.
Chateau de la Haute Borde · Tours
Château de la Haute Borde
Once a 19th-century castle, this Loire Valley guesthouse and artist residence offers design-forward charm and a great base from which to explore the area’s castles and nature. Owned by two photographers and located in Rilly-sur-Loire (three hours by car from Paris), the five-bedroom retreat is an undeniably thoughtful stay: all furnishings were sourced at antique markets, the Brutalist interiors feature only natural materials (wood, brick, marble), and meals are run by a monthly chef in residence, who utilizes produce from the property’s farm (and eggs from its chicken coop!). The uniquely appointed rooms are awash in earth tones, from ochre pillows to terracotta floors, and feature artworks from those who have stayed at the property. Beyond the chateau walls, there is a pool and beautiful meadows for long walks in nature.
L’auberge De La Roche Valdeblore · Valdeblore
L'Auberge de la Roche
Perched in the mountainous Mercantour National Park, close to the Italian border and a 1.5-hour drive from Nice, is this cozy, five-room mountain inn. A passion project of three friends, the Auberge was built with a focus on nature and seasonal cuisine, and the experience centers around meals at the restaurant. Run by former chefs of Paris’ Le 6 Paul Bert and NYC’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns, the eatery makes everything from the charcuterie to the pasta in-house, and centers dishes on produce from the property's farm. The a la carte menu changes seasonally, but past dishes have included glazed carrot with whey, pumpkin seed crumble, and saffron sabayon. Within the retreat’s stone walls, you’ll find two beautiful rooms and three suites that are filled with a smattering of soulful furnishings sourced from nearby markets, and boast terraces with gorgeous mountain views. Rounding out the stay is a lovely spa complete with outdoor baths and a sauna.
Les Sources de Cheverny · Tours
Sources de Cheverny, Les Sources de Caudalie, & Sources de Vougeot
One of France’s best boutique hotel groups is Les Sources, the family-run, “vineyard hotel” brand that’s been slowly but intentionally growing its footprint with special, luxury hotels in some of France’s best wine regions. Owned by a husband-and-wife duo, the group is known for its luxe but approachable countryside hotels that combine gastronomy, wine, and wellness. The latter of these pillars—wellness—is particularly successful thanks to the Caudalie spas at each property (the Sources owner’s sister and her husband happen to be the founders of the French beauty brand). It’s hard to pick a favorite Sources stay…the first property landed in Bordeaux, the second in the Loire Valley, and the third just debuted this month in Burgundy (we just visited for a first look, and will share a full report on the up-and-coming region next week). These are rare properties (and some of the most high-end on this list) that fit a lot of different needs: they’re equally well-suited to families and couples, they are luxurious and amenity-rich but not egregiously expensive, and they work equally well for someone who wants to focus a vacation on food and wine as for someone who wants to focus on R&R.
TRAMA EN PERCHE · Le Chênai
TRAMA EN PERCHE
Marion Trama and Paul Hayat, the duo behind Paris’ Café Trama and Tram, have moved west to set up this home-like guesthouse in the heart of the Perche region, two hours by car from Paris. You can feel the love that’s been poured into the bucolic stone cottage, from its four chic rooms to its elegant public spaces, which feature crown molding and marble fireplaces, plus beautiful accent pieces (vases, flower, frames) that add a cozy, lived-in feel. It’s an ideal city escape for a few days in nature, punctuated by perfect breakfasts on the sunny terrace.
Auberge de Bellevie · Dijon
Auberge de Bellevie
Rustic, rural charm is the theme at Auberge de Bellevie, another inn that was partially inspired by Auberge de Chassignolles: Bellevie’s owner, Zoé Boinet, was the sommelier at Chassignolles before opening this spot in the Jura wine region (a small but important area for wine lovers). The inn and restaurant is surrounded by nature, making it an ideal stay for countryside explorations with excellent food. The restaurant here is run by chef Byron Fini, who previously worked at London’s Brawn and Paris’ Le Doyenné, and churns out local, organic plates, from white asparagus with a rich, herby asparagus to Bresse chicken with anchovies, spinach, and onions. The four rooms feature farmhouse details (exposed wood beams, colorful tiled floors), and there’s a particularly lovely family room, with two bedrooms plus a kitchen and small terrace.
Le Doyenné · Paris
Le Doyenné
Some have drawn parallels between Le Doyenné and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, the lauded farm-to-table restaurant just outside of NYC, and we’d call that comparison accurate. Just 45 minutes from Paris’ city center, this farm, restaurant, and guesthouse is a truly worthwhile detour from Paris, even if you’re only in town for a few days. Run by Australian chefs James Edward Henry and Shaun Kelly, the restaurant offers seasonal menus for lunch and dinner that are made entirely with produce from the property. And staying the night in one of their minimalist but countryside-chic rooms allows the foodie experience to extend further, with one of the most exceptional breakfasts you’ll find at any hotel—think fresh sourdough and chocolate croissants, farm-fresh eggs, yogurt and granola, and more. Room 108 is our favorite, a two-bedroom, two-story accommodation with floral wallpaper and a soaring window looking out over the farm.
D'une île · Le Chênai
D'une île
The countryside B&B from the team behind one of Paris’ most famous restaurants, Septime, offers a real disconnect from city life (truly: WiFi and reception are nearly non-existent). So, stays at the countryside inn just two hours from Paris are expectedly relaxing, focused on seasonally driven meals and peaceful walks in the surrounding forest. The 10 rooms are a study in rustic-chic design, with minimalist furnishings, exposed beams, and white linens. The meals here are really the star of the show, implementing produce from the hotel’s vegetable garden, with in-between time best spent at the pool or wooden sauna.
DE PUTA MADRE ET CHEZ BABETTE · Biarritz
Villa Magnan
Rescued from abandon in 2017 by Anne and Jérôme Israel, this villa-tuned–B&B just outside of Biarritz was the former home of Spanish aristocrats before it went empty for more than 80 years. The bones of the property are stunning, which is why the Israels left it mostly intact when they took it over, keeping the original Art Deco architecture, intricate tiling, and antique furnishings, and only doing light renovations to refresh it into a six-room boutique hotel. The experience here is all about authentic, rustic charm—it’s not overly pampering, it’s a simple, design-forward, soulful stay with wonderful owners and animals roaming about, including the resident donkey, Hector, who’s become a bit of a celebrity. And… an incredible breakfast setup, with fresh juices, cheeses, fruits, croissants, and more all served in a light-filled orangerie. It’s worth noting that the restaurant, Da Puta Madre, has a stunning setting but polarizing food. With rotating chef residencies, the cuisine can be hit or miss.
La Colombe d'Or Hotel and Restaurant · Saint-Paul-de-Vence
La Colombe d'Or Hotel and Restaurant
This legendary spot is not exactly lesser-known… really, it needs no introduction. One of France’s most famed properties, La Colombe d'Or is set in the hilltop town of Saint-Paul-de-Vence and both a hotel and a restaurant, but we’d consider it a French Riviera landmark, too. Back in the day, artists like Picasso would stay here and pay their way in artwork, which can now be viewed around the grounds. And lunch here is a must whether or not you are staying in one of the simple but chic rooms: the outdoor dining area has an unbeatable ambiance, and it’s perfect for a leisurely lunch before ambling around the town. The fare is casual French—don’t miss the huge cheese cart that they wheel around.
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