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An Insider’s Guide to Hydra, Curated by Greek Tastemaker Lydia Zacharis

Just over an hour by ferry from Athens, Hydra feels worlds away: a sun-bleached, car-free island where donkeys outnumber vehicles, days stretch lazily between swims and long lunches, and evenings dissolve into cocktails by the sea. Long beloved by Athenians as a quick but deeply transportive escape, Hydra has also drawn generations of artists, writers, and creatives to its shores. In the 1960s, painter Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas produced hundreds of Cubist works from his Hydra mansion, while Leonard Cohen famously spent part of his youth living on the island. Sophia Loren even dove for sponges here in the cult 1957 film Boy on a Dolphin. Today, Hydra still retains that timeless, slightly bohemian magic. To help you experience the best of the island, these are my favorite stays, tavernas, swims, and sunset spots.

Portrait of Lydia ZacharisLydia Zacharis
An Insider’s Guide to Hydra, Curated by Greek Tastemaker Lydia Zacharis

Where to Stay

Bratsera Hotel

Bratsera is set in a UNESCO-protected former sponge factory and it has preserved various original elements such as historic maps and antique furnishings. It has a cozy, homelike charm, and is close to all of the tiny island’s best spots, including cult favorite Rafalia’s Pharmacy, one of Greece’s oldest pharmacies.

Orloff Hotel Hydra

Orloff is a minimalist but sweet boutique hotel with a convenient location close to the port.

Villa Rental

It is also worth looking into the beautiful villas that are available for rent. You can get one with classic Hydra architecture, such as the elegant, 18th-century Kriezis villa, the magnificent 1620 Historical Stone Manor (pictured here), the Veranda mansion, or the former sponge factory Eugenie mansion.

Where to Eat & Drink

En Plo

En Plo · Corfu

Breakfast

Have your morning coffee and breakfast at EN PLO or The Pirate Bar.

Πιάτο Restaurant

Piato is a go-to for superb Greek food. Make sure you leave your mark by hand painting a plate to add to their vast collection, which include pieces from the likes of Kate Moss and Vivienne Westwood.

Téchnē

Téchnē · Hydra

Téchnē

One of Hydra’s most gourmet options, with modern Greek food and scenic views of the Aegean.

Xeri Elia

Xeri Elia · Hydra

Xeri Elia

This charming taverna has an atmospheric, vine-shaded dining area and menu of Greek classics. A casual, traditional favorite.

Omilos

Omilos · Hydra

Omilos

Beautiful, higher-end restaurant overlooking the water. Great for lunch or dinner if you want to catch the sunset.

Kodylenia’s

Set right by the old port, this tavern has great water and sunset views, plus a menu focused on classic local dishes and seafood.

Kryfo Limani

Kryfo Limani · Hydra

Kryfo Limani

Tucked away behind Hydra’s winding stone lanes, Kryfo Limani (“Secret Port”) is a family-run Greek taverna that sits in a leafy courtyard shaded by oversized lemon trees, with a charmingly unfussy atmosphere. Come for traditional, home-style dishes.

Ostria

Simple seafood tavern run by a local husband-and-wife duo.

Taverna Christina

No frills, family-run spot serving seafood and vegetable dishes implementing produce from the family’s garden.

Amalour

Amalour · Hydra

Amalour

A go-to spot for cocktails and dancing into the wee hours.

1821 HYDRA Cocktail Bar

Another option for pre- or post-dinner cocktails.

Tsagkaris Pastries

Do not leave without some traditional amygdalota (almond cookies) from Tsagaris’ pastry shop.

What to Do

DESTE Foundation | Slaughterhouse

Hydra has some great cultural landmarks, with the DESTE Foundation being the star attraction. Occupying an old slaughterhouse, the space was taken over by the DESTE Foundation and converted into an exhibition space that hosts contemporary art exhibitions. The annual summer exhibition is a destination in and of itself.

Hydra School Projects

Annual summer exhibit run by Greek artist Dimitrios Antonitsis, with a great roster of Greek artists.

Mansion of Lazaros Kountouriotis

This former private mansion was built in 1780 by Lazaros Kountouriotis, the largest shipowner of Hydra and the Mediterranean at the time and also the financier of the Greek War of Independence in 1821.

Hydronetta

Hydronetta · Hydra

Hydronetta

This bar hangs on the edge of a rock and is both a scenic swimming spot and perfect stop for sunset drinks.

Spilia Beach Club

Another perfect swim and cocktail spot, also great at sunset.

Hydra Edition

For a more insider-y side of Hydra, arrange a workshop or dinner with this creative collective that organizes beautifully produced workshops, dinners, and cultural gatherings across Hydra, Athens, and beyond.

Prophet Elias Monastery

The hike to this monastery is beautiful, but try to start in the early morning to beat the heat. You’ll have amazing views through the pines—just make sure you wear comfortable shoes.

Rafalia’s Pharmacy

Stop at the iconic Rafalia’s Pharmacy, allegedly the oldest pharmacy in Greece.

Boat Trip

Book a boat charter with Fishing with Yiannis Hydra for a day on the sea in a traditional fishing boat.

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