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From a Local: Simay Demirel’s 15 Istanbul Essentials

“Food culture is what Istanbul is all about," says Turkey-born, Paris-based tastemaker Simay Demirel. Born and raised in Istanbul, she returns home often, so she’s our go-to expert on the city. Here, she curated a list of her favorite local eats, from authentic taverns and kebab shops to her favorite spot to stock up on Turkish delights, as well as a few must-visit hammams (because no trip to Istanbul would be complete without at least one spa experience).

Portrait of Simay DemirelSimay Demirel
From a Local: Simay Demirel’s 15 Istanbul Essentials

Şehzade Cağ Kebap

Everyone’s favorite (and the world’s most tender) kebab spot, located in a famous passage full of historical restaurants. It serves only the essentials; cağ kebabı, salad, yogurt, and one dessert.

Dönerci Şahin Usta

One of the best and most-loved döner places in town. It’s located near the historical Grand Bazaar. Expect long queues, but it’s worth the wait for döner geeks. Grab thickly-sliced döner with ayran (a Turkish yogurt-based drink) and eat it by the counter.

Pandeli Restaurant

Pandeli Restaurant · Istanbul

Pandeli Restaurant

One of the most emblematic, historic restaurants in town with the most beautiful lunch room. My favorites are the eggplant pie with döner, kereviz or bamya with olive oil, döner on pilaf, or seabass cooked in paper. Don’t sleep on the seasonal desserts, too!

Boris's Place

Boris's Place · Istanbul

Boris’in Yeri

My go-to breakfast spot when I’m showing someone around town, Boris’in Yeri specializes in milk products—meaning they serve heavenly kaymak and delicious cheeses alongside breakfast. I usually opt for çecil cheese, eggs with sucuk or menemen, honey with kaymak, and a simple plate of tomatoes with cucumber. Also try the tahini dip.

Asmalı Cavit

Asmalı Cavit · Istanbul

Asmalı Cavit

The most iconic tavern in a humble setting that’s filled mostly with locals. Think: fresh mezzes, a great ambiance, and lots of raki, best enjoyed with friends.

Zeyrek Çinili Hamam

A traditional hammam with 16th-century architecture that underwent 13 years of restoration. It offers excellent services and there’s a wonderful museum space to visit afterwards that displays architectural remains, tiles, and other objects related to hammam culture. Note that women and men enter separately.

Çukurcuma Hamamı

Another hammam I love that allows men and women to enter together. It offers the most local experience in a historical yet relatively modernized space compared to some of the other hammams. It’s very clean, has kind, professional service, and offers a truly relaxing experience. Add a facial mask on at the end to complete your glow.

Uc Yildiz

Uc Yildiz · Istanbul

Uc Yildiz

Where I stock up on Turkish delights! I usually get a few of the ones that come in small, beautifully designed packages, and my favorite flavors are rose and pistachio. Try the marzipan nature as well!

Sakarya Tatlıcısı

An OG spot for caramelized desserts, and my favorite dessert shop in town. Make sure to order some tea and try their famous ekmek kadayıfı with kaymak. Also try their ev baklavası, baklava with pistachio, and ayva tatlısı with kaymak. They’re open most days until midnight!

Arıoğulları Petek Turşuları

The most popular pickle shop in town with arguably the best pickles of all time. Try the pickle juice (go spicy if you dare, or get the classic) and make sure to bring some pickles home.

Zübeyir Ocakbaşı/Taksim

An obligatory stop for traditional mangal, a Turkish barbeque of local meat dishes. My personal favorites are the urfa kebab, hot chicken wings, and lamb chops with a side of eggplant salad and cacık.

Özen Börekçisi

Özen Börekçisi · Istanbul

Özen Börekçisi

This legendary neighborhood spot is famous for the freshest börek (Turkish pie) in town. It also serves the most delicious kürt böreği with powdered sugar on top.

Göreme Muhallebicisi

Muhallebicisi is a place that specializes in milk-based products and serves my favorite dessert of all time, kazandibi. This spot is particularly great for breakfast, or for a quick çay (tea) and dessert break. Go after visiting the nearby Feriköy Antika Pazarı on a Sunday.

Tavern

Tavern · Istanbul

Tavern

This bar is the place to be on the weekends, with a buzzing location, the most delicious cocktails, and the coolest vibes. A hip crowd takes over the entire street at night.

Bayramoğlu Döner

Bayramoğlu Döner · Istanbul

Bayramoğlu Döner

A must for true döner geeks, this iconic institution serves towers of tomato salad and the softest döner ever. It’s on the far end of the European side of Istanbul, but it’s totally worth taking a cab and experiencing the legendary operation.

Demeti Meyhanesi

Demeti Meyhanesi · Istanbul

Demeti Meyhanesi

One of my favorite taverns in the city, this is a great mezze restaurant located in the coolest neighborhood of Cihangir. The inside is cute, but sit outside on the balcony for the most beautiful view in Istanbul and try absolutely everything.

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