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Le Sirenuse · Positano
Le Sirenuse, Positano, Italy
“One word to describe Le Sirenuse: extraordinary.
Before I arrived, I often came across descriptions like ‘one of the most iconic hotels in the world.’
Upon entering the property, I immediately understand why. It has the polish that one expects of any world-class five-star hotel but with all the intimate charms of a family-run establishment (the Sersale family has owned Le Sirenuse since it opened in 1951).
The halls are lined with 17th- and 18th-century Neapolitan antiques. The walls are hung with carpets, photographs, and artworks by unexpected contemporary artists. And the hotel’s iconic mermaid logo adorns every item that it possibly can. It’s delicately etched on the bathroom’s drinking glasses to hand-painted on the room’s ashtrays. Making a space feel both public and personal is a fine needle to thread, and Le Sirenuse does it perfectly.
The hotel is carved into the cliffs of Positano and sprawls over five levels, giving it the twisty charm of something that has been added to, bit by bit, over time. Each floor opens, of course, to the sea. Even knowing this in advance, when I step from my room onto the terrace, I gasp. Expecting the blue doesn’t make it any less impactful. I could spend a whole day sitting outside, soaking in its beauty through my very pores.
Part of the charm of Le Sirenuse for me was being able to move between the quiet of the hotel and the intensity of the town below. Wandering the tangled streets lined with shops, thronged with people, is especially fun when you are able to sneak back up to a private door and pass again into a world of calm.
The hotel’s pool, set on the same level as its bar and one of two restaurants, has a beautiful view out over the town and the sea. It is enough to lie there as the day passes by (as evidenced by my daughter). Because of the height of the cliffs, the sun drops behind them long before it sets, leaving the town with an extended twilight. In the half-light, from the terrace, you can see the town for the magical place it has long been.” — Skye Parrott
Hôtel Royal · Évian-les-Bains
Hôtel Royal Evian, Évian-les-Bains, France
“Perched high on the hill above the (truly adorable) town of Évian-les-Bains is the Hôtel Royal Évian. Originally commissioned by the mineral water company in the early 1900’s, the property is a Palace of France, a designation given to the best of the best in French hospitality. But it’s also wonderfully human, with a welcoming staff who make it feel like a home — and who are making moves to operate the property in a way that conserves its precious water.
I really started to think about water on a tour of the property’s grounds with its landscaper. The lawns were not as manicured as one might expect, which he explained was an intentional decision to return them to native meadows. Along with improving the wildlife habitat, the meadows have drastically reduced the property’s water usage. Lawns that used to be watered daily now only need it once or twice a week, and the resort is using one-seventh of the water it used just a few years ago. He also pointed out dense ground cover that has been allowed to accumulate under the property’s 600 trees, protecting the giants (some hundreds of years old) from summer heat waves. The hotel even operates 10 beehives and extensive permaculture kitchen gardens, which produce two tons of fruit and vegetables a year for its restaurants.
The hotel is undoubtedly grand. It has seven restaurants, an (incredible) spa, and one of the best kids’ programs I’ve ever encountered. But along with the grandeur, there was a coziness present, too. Maybe it was the families walking through the lobby on their way back from the spa, the kids in their little bathrobes. Or maybe it was the warm conversations I had with the staff, many of whom have spent their entire careers there (some had worked at the hotel upwards of thirty years) and were personally invested in creating an incredible guest experience. Their collective effect was unusual and unexpected, a fresh mix of old and new, a property that is embracing the past while keeping an eye on how they can grow into the future.” — Skye Parrott
Raffles London at The OWO · London
Raffles London, London, UK
“Raffles London at The OWO looks like a fortress. For many years, the building essentially was. From 1857 to 1964, it was the War Office, HQ for Britain’s defense forces. After 1964, it became the Old War Office, housing the Ministry of Defense. It’s where Winston Churchill’s offices were located and where MI5 and MI6 were born. The government sold the building in 2014. Late last year, for the first time, the property welcomed the public.
Entering the space offers a sigh and a gasp. You’re hit with undeniable grandeur facing a two-story, red-carpeted double staircase. The steps were built to be unusually wide and deep so officers with wooden peg-legs could swing them out as they ascended. At the top stands the cutout podium where Winston Churchill delivered his daily morning address. A Murano glass chandelier (not original, but very beautiful) crowns it all.
The building, the first in the world to be wired with telephone lines, is enormous — nearly 820,000 square feet. Unable to add space above ground, the eight-year renovation went down, adding five floors for ballrooms and meeting rooms; a Guerlain Spa; a state-of-the-art gym and fitness complex; and a 20-meter-long swimming pool.
Guest suites are in former offices, including those of Churchill and War Secretary Lord Haldane. More suites were created in the rounded domes that cap the building’s corners; each named for notable female Brits. There are also nine restaurants including spots from Michelin-starred chefs Endo Kazutosh and Mauro Colagreco. The Spy Bar in the basement doesn’t allow photos, but I’m authorized to say it nods to the most famous spy in Her Majesty’s Service in a very fun way. An astronomical investment of both time and money was involved in giving the property its newest life (I heard it was north of £1.5 billion). The results, however, are jaw dropping. Of course, it’s all topped off by Raffles’ renowned service.” — Skye Parrott
Under Canvas Acadia · Bar Harbor
Under Canvas Acadia, Maine, USA
“To mention Under Canvas Acadia and ‘camp’ in the same breath is almost a misnomer.
I grew up camping: cold outdoor showers, canned food warmed over a fire, sleeping bags on the ground with armadillos rustling in the underbrush and rubbing up against the tent — that kind of camping. This is most certainly not that.
Under Canvas Acadia is one of 11 luxury camps run by the brand, which has positioned itself as offering a safari-inspired experience stateside, with resorts adjacent to all of the most spectacular national parks. The canvas tents here are set up on wooden platforms and have soft beds, wood-burning stoves, indoor showers, toilets, and even electricity, provided by rechargeable battery packs. There is a large common tent with tables, sofas, board games, outdoor firepits with s’more kits, and a restaurant serving excellent local food.
While it was a far cry from my childhood memories of camping, it shared the aspect of it that I remember enjoying most: The experience of being really and truly outside (and a modern update, disconnected, as the property purposely does not offer Wi-Fi). The wind rustling through the trees could be heard through the soft walls of the tent at night, as I lay, tucked into a plush, comfortable bed.” — Skye Parrott
Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal · Cabo San Lucas
Waldorf Astoria Pedregal Los Cabos, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
“The opportunity to visit the Waldorf Astoria Pedregal Los Cabos for a wellness retreat came to me amid an apartment move and New York heat wave. It was too hot to do anything besides lay inside my cramped apartment and stress about how I had to pack it all up, so I happily jumped on a plane.
Landing at the Los Cabos Airport is a notoriously bumpy affair, and the drive from there is long, through a barren, mountainous landscape. The Waldorf Astoria is the light at the end of the tunnel, literally. Its entrance is a long, dark underpass illuminated only by the glimmer of the ocean peeking out at the end, which seemed like a mirage at the end of my journey.
As a California girl, I’m not truly comfortable unless I’m near the ocean, so that first glimpse, followed by a room with an unobstructed view of aquamarine waves, provided a very welcome promise of the ease to come.
I didn’t realize just how stressed I was until I began to unwind that first night with a bedtime soaking ritual. Laced with juniper, rosemary, and honey, the bath reflected the spa’s overall menu of organic treatments, which draw upon “the ancient and innate intelligence of traditional Mexican Folk Healing — known as curanderismo.” This approach incorporates time-honored rituals, herbs, and energetic healing. Its results, in my case, were nearly instantaneous. Usually my mind is racing before bed, but the scent of juniper and the equalizing salts cleared my thoughts, nearly causing me to fall asleep in the bath.
As for the treatments, I opted for The Restoring Moon, a 110-minute signature treatment comprising full-body exfoliation, a mud wrap, and a lymphatic massage. The tensions and toxins that seemed permanently embedded in my muscles disappeared. Following my treatment, I alternated between the sauna and ice room, where I was mesmerized by the flakes falling from the ceiling. I woke the next morning more energized than ever, shockingly ready for yoga.
While not officially part of the wellness agenda, the hotel’s considered cuisine also played its part. Travesía at Su Cocina, an eight-course tasting menu, showcases Mexico’s vibrant, varying flavors in the form of tacos, with the jicama taco with fried oyster and aguachile remaining fixed in my memory. But El Farallon is the hotel’s crown jewel, tucked into the cliffs and offering a specialty of freshly caught seafood with champagne.
My visit reminded me of the not new, but always true notion that wellness is about more than just healthy food and exercise; it’s about taking care of the mind, too. But dedicating time to your body also does do wonders for the mind. Feeling reset, I returned to the city with the intention of remaining in that balanced state. And if things get too far out of balance, I know that there’s a place out West where I can begin my day with sunrise yoga and end it watching the sun set over the ocean.” — Alessandra Berge
Virunga Lodge · Volcanoes National Park
Virunga Lodge, Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
“It was a couple hours’ drive to Virunga Lodge, where we would spend the rest of our nights. Perched on a ridge above the Musanze valley, the lodge, built in 2004, overlooks two lakes and has views of several Virunga Mountain peaks. The property has ten bandas, standalone bungalows with thatched roofs and private outdoor sitting areas with firepits. Each room has its own butler. Our butler, Dan, was a 24-year-old local who aspires to eventually hold political office. The details are always in the service, and the service couldn't have been any better. Dan woke us up in the morning — by singing. His voice registered a quiet falsetto, almost like a birdsong outside our banda as he lit our fire and delivered breakfast. I didn’t want to ask any questions about what he was saying, or where the song came from. I wanted to make up my own story about it. He left as he arrived, singing, leaving behind a wake of loveliness. In the morning we went gorilla trekking, our wake-up song came at 5:10 am.” — Jeremy Malman
Capella Singapore · Singapore
Capella Singapore, Sentosa Island, Singapore
“Capella Singapore is a sprawling hotel situated around two Tanah Merah colonial bungalows dating back to the 1800s. I snagged my own villa room (with a plunge pool and an outdoor tub) that allows for a view of the sea. After finding a monogrammed Pratesi bathrobe on my bed as a form of welcome (I would not have actually believed it was for me, were my name not on it), I sip some champagne alone in my private plunge pool, convinced this is the nicest hotel I’be ever been allowed to set foot in.” — T. Cole Rachel
HOSHINOYA Tokyo · Tokyo
Hoshinoya, Tokyo, Japan
Modeled on a ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn, Hoshinoya Tokyo is located in a high-rise not far from Tokyo Station, the commercial center of the city. On a Saturday night, the area felt like a ghost town.
I was greeted by a kimono-clad staff member who led me to an elevator, bowing deeply as the doors closed. From there, I entered the lobby, a cavernous room with an installation of towering cherry-blossom branches. I removed my shoes. The floors are lined with tatami mats across the hotel and scooting in my bare feet to the elevator, I had the enjoyable, slightly discordant feeling of entering a private space.
My room was long and rectangular, with low sitting areas and a futon on a platform. A kimono was laid out for me. The walls were lined with sliding paper shoji screens set in wooden cases; when opened, they revealed the metal latticework of the building and, through that, the city outside. Everything was voluptuously quiet.
The food is local and hyper-seasonal, the menus crafted daily based on the ingredients the chef has procured. I took Japanese breakfast in my room, a feast of salty and pickled delights (deceptively filling). I ate dinner in a private dining room, where, as in a traditional ryokan, each jewel of a course is built around fish.
I laid in the traditional onsen at night, set on the hotel’s roof, staring at the clouds passing by in the sky above. The property also offers cultural activities like early-morning kenjutsu practice, or sword training, on the helipad of a neighboring building that overlooks all of Tokyo. The emptiness and simplicity of Hoshinoya Tokyo resonated profoundly for me. It felt like taking a very deep, calming breath. I was encouraged to slow down, pay attention, and experience all the small details — the plushness of the futon, the comfort of the tatami mats underfoot, the softness of the sheets on my skin, and the light changing in my room as the day slowly turned back into night.” — Skye Parrott
Shinta Mani Wild · Ou Bak Roteh
Shinta Mani Wild, Ou Bak Roteh, Cambodia
“Shinta Mani Wild is located a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Cambodia’s capital city, Phnom Penh. Most of the journey was enjoyable, on new roads built during the pandemic, when the country paused tourism and focused on infrastructure construction to keep its economy afloat. The last 45 minutes, however, took us along a bumpy dirt road that grew more and more rugged. As we neared the mountains, the landscape closed in, surrounding us with abundant vegetation. Small roadside houses and stores became increasingly sparse as we ventured deeper into the forest. By the time we arrived at the hotel’s gate, we felt as though we were entering another world.
The property houses 15 unique tents scattered throughout 400 hectares of pristine wilderness, adhering to Shinta Mani Wild’s minimal intervention principle. The design provides guests with a sense of secluded immersion in nature. At the same time, they are supported by an exceptional team ready to cater to their every need. Wellness services, including massages, yoga sessions, sound baths, and in-room service, accompany a carefully curated menu that highlights locally foraged vegetables and produce — all available in the heart of the forest. Before guests arrive, adventure butlers propose a set of activities designed by the hotel’s team to enhance their connection with the natural setting.
During our stay, two activities curated by the Shinta Mani Wild team stood out, each providing insight into the extensive operations necessary to maintain the hotel’s unique balance with its environment. On our second day, our butler, Sky, took us foraging with the hotel’s executive chef, Bernard Hartzenberg, who has extensive experience creating remote, luxurious hotel experiences. A local ranger guided us on a lengthy walk through the valley, teaching us how Cambodian rural communities forage for fruits, roots, and vegetables from the forest. We also toured the garden, chicken coop, and hydroponic farm — an innovative zero-waste operation that converts food scraps into organic fertilizer.
Back at the hotel, we utilized the foraged and collected ingredients to participate in a cooking class, resulting in a remarkable lunch. This experience allowed us to fully appreciate the care and challenges the chef and his team face in delivering exceptional meals without access to wholesalers, suppliers, or large supermarkets.
As we walked back to our tent from the kitchen and restaurant headquarters — a scenic 20-minute stroll along a carefully crafted path with bridges — we enjoyed the forest’s sounds and sights and the numerous waterfalls we crossed. This journey led us to consider the intricate details of this vast operation, which felt more like a harmonious choreography than an invasion, transforming our presence into a balanced coexistence with nature.” — Luis Rincón Alba
Las Qolqas, Cusco, Peru
“In Lima for a shoot, I had a hard time imagining returning from Peru without seeing the Andes. I extended my trip by a few days, which I spent at Las Qolqas, an eco-resort in the Sacred Valley. Built on several acres of land outside of Ollantaytambo, the resort is made up of luxury tents, mature trees, and flowering gardens – all tucked between two sheer cliff faces. The property has a focus on sustainability: and is built with such a light footprint that it could be packed up and returned to farmland in just two weeks. From the hotel, I took a day trip to Machu Picchu, returning in time to have a massage, bathe in the Japanese soaking tub, and eat dinner at the property’s restaurant, which serves a daily menu cooked with whatever is fresh and local; during my visit that included a river trout breaded with quinoa, and salads made from greens grown on the property and edible flowers. While I was eating, staff members came into my room to light the fire in the wood stove, which I very much appreciated, as the nights were wonderfully chilly. It was an ideal jumping-off place for exploring the Sacred Valley, but also would be a lovely stay for anyone who wants to simply relax surrounded by spectacular beauty.” — Skye Parrott
The Peninsula Hong Kong (香港半島酒店) · Hong Kong
Peninsula, Hong Kong
“Known as the "Grande Dame of the Far East," Peninsula's Hong Kong hotel is their first and arguably most iconic property. From its perch on the Kowloon waterfront, it offers easy access to numerous museums, shops and restaurants outside its doors. But with five restaurants, a luxury shopping arcade, and its famous tea-time in the lobby (with live music), you don't actually even need to leave to experience the city. You might prefer to spend your time gazing out the window (like I did), taking in the always changing view of the Pearl River, and beyond it, the skyline of Hong Kong Island.” — Skye Parrott
Mandarin Oriental Conservatorium, Amsterdam · Amsterdam
Conservatorium Hotel, Amsterdam, Netherlands
“I arrived at the Conservatorium Hotel in Amsterdam in a haze, one created by a strong elixir of jetlag and the city’s morning fog — just as the sun was rising over its silent canals. Wandering through the property’s lobby, later described to me as the “living room of Amsterdam,” I was attuned to my rather spectacular surroundings by the din of early-rising guests and locals, which acted like a much-needed shot of espresso.
Milan-based designer and architect Piero Lissoni designed the vast space with respect to the historical building’s significant past, while at the same time shaking off any hint of dust. Scalloped, bricked walls nod to its 19th century origins as a national savings bank designed by Dutch architect Daniel Knutte, while a ukulele chandelier commemorates the property’s second life as the Sweelinck Music Conservatorium. It nurtured the city’s young musicians until 2008 and which contextualizes the hotel’s location within Amsterdam’s Museum Quarter, home to the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, and the Moco. It also provides a legacy foundation to the distinguishing artistic thread that runs through the property.
The Glass Library at the Conservatorium houses rotating exhibitions, often of contemporary artists. A wall near the first-floor elevator houses a portrait by Bastian Woudt, a Dutch photographer who served as the hotel’s artist in residence in 2022, part of the property’s ongoing collaborations with local artists to develop its Residence Suites. Speaking of suites, the welcome note in mine featured an original watercolor of the city. Later, over drinks with Roy Tomassen, the Conservatorium’s General Manager, I discovered he had painted it. In fact, he paints every single welcome letter, which aptly sums up the hotel’s service: creative and extraordinarily thoughtful.” — Mia Sherin
La Mamounia · Marrakesh
La Mamounia, Marrakech, Morocco
“Just on the other side of its 2023 centenary celebration, La Mamounia still lives up to the description given to it by Winston Churchill in 1945, who declared it “the most beautiful place in the world.” Fountains populate its enchanting gardens, an Olympic-sized pool shimmers. Guest rooms remain impeccable expressions of the place and the palace’s standards, with zouac ceilings, mashrabiya windows, and medina views.” — Skye Parrott
The Inn at Mattei's Tavern, Auberge Collection · Santa Barbara
The Inn at Mattei's Tavern, California, USA
“People say the reason to go to the Santa Ynez mountains, two hours northwest of Los Angeles in Santa Barbara County, is to drink wine. The reason to go, really, is just to be there. My husband and I visited The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern, where folks have been re-fueling for more than a century (our first getaway since our second kid was born).
Mattei’s — pronounced “Matty’s” — is a recent expansion of a stagecoach stop that opened in 1886. It’s named for Felix Mattei, a Swiss immigrant who opened the tavern to serve hungry and thirsty travelers. (Long before Mattei arrived, this was Chumash land and Santa Ynez remains home to the Chumash Reservation several miles away.) Mattei’s kept evolving as a new regional railroad brought more travelers, followed by early automobiles, then Hollywood types keen to capture its old western vibe on film.
Today, the tavern — a two-story wood-and-brick house filled with historical photographs, portraits, and taxidermy — houses a bar, restaurant, and Felix’s, a coffee shop in what was once the Matteis’ bedroom, complete with flocked, wine-colored wallpaper. In February 2023, the building became the heart of a picturesque Auberge Resorts compound, comprising 62 cottages and rooms, two barns with soaring windows (one for the gym, the other for events), a spa, two more bars plus a tap-room, and an absolutely lovely outdoor pool.
Upon arrival, we absconded to the pool, ticking the hours by the neighboring church bells. The Tavern’s patio, surrounded by canoodling couples and locals with dogs, was an ideal setting for dinner before we borrowed the hotel’s G-Wagon for a sunset drive. On the advice of the bellman, we took Figueroa Road past Michael Jackson’s Neverland Ranch into the hills as they turned golden.
The following day, we ventured to Demetria before the pool called us back. We sat at Mattei’s bar to end our stay, with classic cocktails, a shrimp cocktail, and revelatory cheeseburger. I took a bath in our suite’s clawfoot tub and slept that night for 10 hours.” — Jenni Avins
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